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The islands were
discovered by the Spanish in 1595 and named Las Marquesas de Mendoza. Drawing near the
coast, the ship San Jeronimo was approached by a fleet of outrigger canoes crewed by 400
men whom the Spanish described as robust, light-skinned with blue tatoos, and wearing
their hair long and loose.
Contact was the beginning of the end for the Marquesan people. Foreign diseases, slave
raids, the introduction of opium, the continuation of their own warfare and cannibalism
killed 95 percent of the population.
The Marquesas Islands are today a part of French Polynesia. Significant archaeological
sites at Hane on Ua Huka have shed much light on the mysteries of early Polynesian
migrations. Norwegian explorer and anthropologist Thor Heyerdahl lived on Fatu Hiva in
1936 and wrote a book, Aku Aku, about his time in this remote place.
Wild and lonely islands with names like Nuku Hiva, Ua Huka and Hiva Oa are besieged by the
ocean and whipped by the wind. Of these 10 Islands, only six are inhabited. The ancient
valley people of the Marquesas, separated from each other by mountainous terrain and
treacherous seas, developed insular little societies, jealous and warlike. Their artwork,
particularly in wood, was striking and they left behind beautiful bowls, fan handles,
intricate ironwood war clubs and impressive tikis. They also carved massive god Images in
stone. It was from these Islands that expeditions set forth to colonize Hawaii and Easter
Island off the coast of South America.
What was lost is found. The Marquesan culture was almost extinct until students from the
Center studied early visual records and interviewed surviving Marquesan elders who had
contact with the old ways. The Marquesan Island at the Polynesian Cultural Center, once
just an exhibit, is now a living, vital place. Actually a ceremonial compound, or tohua,
it vibrates with the spirit that once made the Marquesas the dispersal point for
Polynesian migration.
Visitors relax in the shade of the impressive coral block structures while the Haka Puaka,
the lusty pig hunting dance, bursts from the dawn of time. To the beat of ancient drums,
men in feathers and red loin cloths portray the courage and cunning of the hunt, never
turning their backs on the Ha'e Haka'iki, the chief's house.
When it comes time for the hum-ha, the love dance, honeymooning visitors are invited front
and center to be honored, and gifted with flowered headbands.
Tattoo is actually a Polynesian word. Body patterns were designed to confer prestige,
power and protection. Only the first-born child, male or female, was tattooed. From their
ranks, chiefs were chosen. Today, anyone can tap into the prestige at the Marquesan
Village and be painted with a (non-permanent) traditional tatoo.
The Marquesan Island also serves as nature's own first aid station. Extensive research has
been done into early Polynesian pharmacology. Medical practices were quite sophisticated,
and doctors treated the patient holistically, healing both body and spirit. The most
popular medication on village shelves today is the aloe sunburn remedy.
Samples of breadfruit, taro or surprisingly good boiled green bananas are free fuel for
continuing the day's tour of the Polynesian Cultural Center. Buildings in the Marquesan
compound are constructed of Hawaiian coral rather than the basalt rock the Marquesans used
in their homeland. The decision to use coral is one the practical Polynesians would have
made, for they were adept at using locally available material.
Through lectures and story-telling, the history of the little-known Marquesas Islands is
shared. The most often asked question is, "Where are these islands?" A map at
the village entrance pinpoints their location in the Pacific, as part of the great
Polynesian Triangle.
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